How To Make Ankara Dresses In Nigeria

Ankara dresses are a staple of Nigerian fashion, celebrated for their vibrant colors, bold patterns, and cultural significance. These dresses have evolved over the years from traditional attires to modern fashion statements, worn for various occasions ranging from casual outings to elaborate ceremonies. Learning how to make Ankara dresses is a valuable skill for aspiring fashion designers, tailors, and anyone interested in expressing creativity through African fashion.

This blog post will guide you through the process of making Ankara dresses, from selecting the right fabric to designing, cutting, and sewing. Whether you're a beginner or someone with basic sewing skills, this guide will provide essential tips on how to create stunning Ankara outfits in Nigeria.

Step 1: Understanding Ankara Fabric

Before diving into the technical process of making Ankara dresses, it is important to understand the fabric itself.

What is Ankara Fabric?
Ankara fabric, also known as "African wax print," is a cotton fabric characterized by its vibrant, colorful patterns that are often geometric or abstract. It is commonly used across Africa for making dresses, skirts, tops, and even accessories. The fabric's bold prints make it highly versatile for a range of styles.

Characteristics of Ankara Fabric:

  • Durable and breathable: Ankara is made from cotton, making it comfortable and easy to wear in the warm Nigerian climate.
  • Vivid colors: The prints and colors of Ankara fabrics are made to last, even after multiple washes.
  • Affordable: Ankara fabrics are readily available in Nigeria, ranging in price depending on the quality, making it accessible for both personal and commercial use.
  • Cultural Significance: The patterns on Ankara fabric often carry cultural meanings, with different designs symbolizing various African traditions, stories, or social messages.

When selecting Ankara fabric for your dress, pay attention to the quality, as higher-quality fabric will be easier to sew and will hold its shape better. Look for fabrics with a firm texture and vibrant colors that won’t fade over time.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Design

Once you have your fabric, the next step is choosing a design for your Ankara dress. The style you select depends on several factors, such as the occasion for which the dress is being made, body type, and personal preferences.

Popular Ankara Dress Styles in Nigeria:

  • Maxi Dresses: Floor-length, flowing dresses often used for special occasions.
  • Peplum Dresses: These feature a flared ruffle at the waist, creating a flattering silhouette for most body types.
  • Skater Dresses: Short, flared dresses that are perfect for casual wear or parties.
  • A-Line Dresses: Simple yet elegant dresses that are narrow at the top and gradually widen towards the bottom.
  • Off-Shoulder Dresses: These dresses reveal the shoulders and are trendy for both casual and formal events.

It’s important to consider the amount of fabric required for the design you choose. For example, a full-length dress will need more fabric compared to a knee-length style. If you're a beginner, start with a simpler design, such as a straight-cut or A-line dress, before moving on to more complex designs with ruffles or embellishments.

Step 3: Taking Accurate Measurements

Taking accurate body measurements is a crucial step in making a well-fitting Ankara dress. If you're making a dress for yourself, you can measure with the help of a friend, or if you're sewing for a client, ensure you get their correct measurements.

Key measurements include:

  • Bust: Measure around the fullest part of the chest.
  • Waist: Measure around the smallest part of the waist, usually above the navel.
  • Hips: Measure around the fullest part of the hips.
  • Length: Measure from the shoulder (or waist, depending on the design) down to the desired length of the dress.

Write down these measurements carefully, as they will guide you in cutting the fabric.

Step 4: Cutting the Fabric

With your design in mind and measurements ready, the next step is cutting your Ankara fabric. It’s crucial to cut the fabric carefully, as errors during this stage can affect the final outcome.

Cutting Techniques:

  • Pattern Drafting: Before cutting, it’s a good idea to draft a pattern on paper based on the measurements. A pattern will serve as a guide and help you visualize the dress before cutting the fabric.
  • Laying Out the Fabric: Lay your Ankara fabric on a flat surface and make sure it is smooth and free of wrinkles.
  • Marking the Fabric: Use chalk or a fabric marker to outline where you will cut. Double-check your measurements to ensure accuracy before making any cuts.
  • Cutting: Use sharp fabric scissors to cut along the marked lines. Be precise with your cuts, as any mistakes could lead to uneven or ill-fitting pieces.

For beginners, it’s always advisable to use a pattern, but with experience, you may be able to cut fabric directly by eye, especially for simpler designs.

Step 5: Sewing the Dress

Now that you have your fabric pieces cut out, it’s time to sew the dress. You’ll need a sewing machine, thread, pins, and other essential tools. If you’re a beginner, it’s important to take your time and follow each step carefully.

Basic Sewing Techniques:

  • Pinning the Pieces Together: Start by pinning the fabric pieces together along the edges you will sew. This helps hold everything in place and ensures the seams are straight.
  • Sewing Seams: Begin by sewing the side seams and shoulder seams, ensuring the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Sew slowly and steadily to ensure neat, straight stitches.
  • Zipper Installation: If your dress requires a zipper, sew it in carefully along the back seam. Zipper installation can be tricky for beginners, so consider practicing on scrap fabric before attaching it to your dress.
  • Hemming: Hem the edges of the dress, including the neckline, armholes, and bottom hem. Folding the fabric over twice before hemming will give it a neat finish.

Pro Tips for a Professional Finish:

  • Pressing the Fabric: As you sew, use an iron to press the seams flat. This helps create a more polished look.
  • Overlocking: If you have access to an overlocker (serger), use it to finish the edges of the fabric. This will prevent fraying and give your dress a clean, professional finish.
  • Adding Embellishments: You can enhance your Ankara dress with accessories such as lace, beads, or buttons. These embellishments can make your dress stand out even more.

Step 6: Final Fitting and Adjustments

Once your Ankara dress is sewn together, it’s important to try it on (or have the person you’re sewing for try it on) to ensure the fit is correct. Make any necessary adjustments, such as taking in the sides or shortening the length. If the dress fits perfectly, give it one final press to smooth out any wrinkles.

Step 7: Marketing Your Ankara Dresses (For Business Purposes)

If you're learning how to make Ankara dresses for business purposes, it’s essential to think about how to market and sell your designs. Many Nigerian fashion designers use social media platforms such as Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter to showcase their work. Creating an online portfolio or setting up an e-commerce website can also help you reach a wider audience. Additionally, participating in fashion shows, pop-up markets, and exhibitions can help you build a strong client base.

Conclusion

Making Ankara dresses is both an art and a craft, combining creativity with practical sewing skills. Whether you're sewing for yourself, family, friends, or customers, following these steps will help you create beautiful and well-fitting Ankara outfits. As you gain more experience, you can explore more complex designs, experiment with mixing different fabrics, and add personal touches to make your Ankara dresses truly unique.

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Muna Tengi

Digital Entrepreneur & Content Creator

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